How to spend 3 days in Tromsø, Northern Norway’s effortlessly cool Arctic capital
DK Eyewitness Editor Danielle Watt walks us through her memorable trip to Tromsø, one of the largest cities in the Arctic Circle...
Snow capped peaks, breathtaking fjords, forested hillsides blanketed in snow and the elusive aurora borealis dancing across an inky night sky. Sounds about right for the Arctic. But how about fine dining restaurants, scintillating nightlife, exquisite modern architecture and a café culture to rival any European capital?
A city break with a difference was what I asked for, and it’s certainly what I got. Inspired by DK Eyewitness’ latest edition of Where to Go When, I packed my thermals and set off on a spontaneous trip to Tromsø to beat those January blues. Turns out this vibrant city some 200 miles deep inside the Arctic Circle is the perfect destination for those seeking a mini-break with a difference. Here’s how I made the most of my three days in this winter wonderland...
Day 1
Flying into Tromsø is more like pulling into a regional bus station than a major city airport. Within half an hour of disembarking, my travel buddy and I had already picked up our hire car and were on our way to our accommodation. We decided to stay on the island of Kvaløya, about 20 minutes’ drive from the city centre, for the first two nights. This was partly down to cost, but also convenience, as it meant we could more easily explore the surrounding countryside as well as taking in the city sights.
Before checking in, we made a short detour to Bryggejentenefor lunch. Serving fantastic freshly prepared Norwegian cuisine (try the fiskesuppe, you won’t be disappointed) set against epic fjord views, the café also doubles as an adorable boutique selling typically chic scandi-style ceramics, tableware and household goodies.
But the main event of day one began at night. Clear skies and long nights at this time of year make Tromsø an ideal place to spot the northern lights. A whole host of companies offer similar excursions to scenic locations far from the light pollution of the city. But the aurora are a natural phenomenon, and while tour operators will try their best to make sure you are in the right place at the right time – some will even drive as far as Finland – there are no guarantees that you’ll be able to cross them off your bucket list.
We booked with Destination Tromsø as they promised smaller groups, a campfire dinner in a traditional Sámi lavvu, and a loan of thermal suits and camera gear if required. And at -14℃, thermal suits were definitely required!
A nail biting two and a half hour drive inland brought us to their private aurora camp, which consisted of two lavvus in a clearing at the foot of the stunning Lyngen Alps. The timing couldn’t have been better; shortly after arriving a break in the clouds revealed a ghostly green aurora shimmering above. We couldn’t believe our luck!
Day 2
Resisting the urge to sleep in, we set off for a drive through the snowy wilderness beyond the city. Skirting the waterline, we drove the length of Kvaløya to the pretty island of Sommarøy, a popular spot in summer thanks to its white-sand beaches and beautiful scenery.
The drive was simply spectacular. Clusters of picture-perfect houses painted in red and mustard yellow popped against dramatic mountainscapes thick with snow. Cross country skiers whizzed past as we stopped to take photos in the ethereal winter twilight – at this time of year the sun barely peeks above the horizon before it begins to set again, and the result is a prolonged golden hour, a photographer’s dream. Tove’s Glasskunst, a cute little café and glass studio overlooking the water, was the perfect spot to refuel and admire work by local artists.
Back in Tromsø by evening, we braved icy streets and a sudden blizzard (the locals were distinctly unphased) to sample some of the 70-odd Norwegian craft beers on tap at the iconic Ølhallen. This cosy pub, once the preserve of salty sea dogs, has retained much of its original charm and is well worth a visit, even if the beers are on the pricier side. Until recently, it was the world’s northernmost brewery, having been overtaken by the Svalbard Brewery in 2015. Still, second place isn’t bad.
When it came to dinner, we were spoiled for choice. Tromsø’s culinary scene has flourished in recent years, with innovative chefs championing hyperlocal produce. While the staple here is definitely seafood, Norwegian klippfisk (salt cod) in particular, reindeer stew is another favourite. Initially hesitant, I got chatting to a local student who encouraged me to try it. In this region of Northern Norway reindeer are farmed by the indigenous Sámi people – the meat is ethically and sustainably produced, and buying it supports their traditional way of life. Whale meat on the other hand, she hastened to add, is best avoided.
Day 3
Another early start – got to make the most of those 4 hours of daylight! Our hosts were kind enough to lend us their snowshoes, so we spent the morning exploring the hillsides behind our accommodation. A word of advice – it’s much harder than it looks!
Then on to the city for a stroll along the waterfront with its colourful wooden-clad buildings and a much-needed caffeine fix from ultimate hipster hangout Risø. More like a chemistry lab than a café, these guys are seriously nuts about coffee. The competition is fierce, but this place is a hands down winner for the best brew in town.
A short ride in the Fjellheisen Cable Car took us to a viewing platform at the top of Mount Storsteinen for yet more epic panoramas, this time overlooking the entire island of Tromsøya and the twinkling lights of the city in the winter light. This is Tromsø’s most visited tourist sight, and for good reason. You can hike up the mountain via 1200 stone steps, but after the morning’s strenuous snowshoe adventure I felt I could allow myself the luxury of a lift. The café at the top is a great option for a reasonably-priced lunch with a view, though be prepared to queue.
Now isn’t the time for going places. However, as we spend the coming weeks mostly indoors, we can still dream about travel, plan future adventures and revisit ones we’ve taken before. This is exactly what we’ve asked our team to do – to dream and reflect. Here are 12 memorable trips taken by the DK Eyewitness team, featuring eclipses, safaris, cycling treks, pilgrimages, bunnies, toboggans and ancient ruins.
How to be an armchair traveller
Just because you can’t escape to a new adventure right now doesn’t mean you should stop dreaming. There are ways to remain inspired, whether you’re surfing the internet on your phone, lounging at home, or sipping coffee at your local cafe. Being an armchair traveller is all about learning about and reflecting, and ultimately engaging with far-flung places without ever needing to leave home.